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Iraq Trip Report
By LaChelle Amos
July 3 to August 14, 2007
Sulaimaniya, Halabja, Sirwan, Grde Go, Tapi Safai Xwaru, Tapi Safai Saru, Sarqalla, Kalar, Khalabag, Erbil
Note: For the protection of the individuals interviewed, only first names are provided. Where full names are given, the individual was interviewed as a representative of a particular organization.
Arrival
My flight left Munich at 10 p.m. and arrived in Sulaimaniya around 4 a.m. local time. Instead of sleeping, everyone on the plane talked excitedly as we flew through the night. The anticipation of touching ground in Kurdistan was palpable. As the wheels touched the runway, the plane erupted into clapping and cheers. Noticing my quizzical smile, the Kurdish woman sitting beside me, who left her family behind 9 years ago to escape persecution, turned to me and in broken German with a smile on her face and said, "Since Saddam dead, we come now."
Overview
Around the city of Sulaimaniya, some interesting contrasts are evident. Numerous construction sites stand next to much older buildings. New supermarkets have been built with European style cafés and ice cream parlors. However, trash lines every street and much work needs to be done throughout the governorate to improve water sanitation, electricity, housing and schools, said Dand Ahmad Majid, Governor of Sulaimaniya.
Electricity is not a resource to be taken for granted in Iraq. Electricity is never constant. The government provides a limited supply each day, from Baghdad and dams, such as Lake Dukan. The remainder comes from a generator, from which only a certain amount is allotted for residents. Once that amount is reached the electricity switches off and must be manually switched back on. The lack of consistent electricity is a continual source of frustration in the region. A few people interviewed even reminisced of a time when electricity was not a concern- prior to 1991 under Saddam Hussein’s control.
The number of newly constructed building is not the only recent increase in the city. The cost of living has also increased in recent years. Some local residents speculate that the value of the US Dollar has decreased due to the flood of the Dollar from soldier spending and government projects. At one time the US Dollar and the Iraqi Dinar were equal. One US Dollar is now the equivalent of approximately 1,200 Iraqi Dinar.
The population increase due to many Arab families moving to the region to escape the violence in the rest of the country has also increased the cost of living, particularly in regards to the housing market. With so many people competing for a limited number of units, those renting property can set the price as high as they like, making it difficult not only for the internally displaced persons but also for the residents of Sulaimaniya. Hewa Jaff of the Governorate of Sulaimaniya explained that he had been searching for a new house to rent for the last few months but was unable to find anything for less than $1,000, which is two to three times as much as the average person earns in a month.
Social change in ideas and values has also increased the cost of living. Traditionally, when a couple gets married they live in a room of the parent’s house, explained Talar, a local women’s rights worker. However, with relatives living abroad and access to the internet and satellite television- which was banned prior to 1991- popular ideas have begun to transform. Now most newlyweds want to live in their own house, which floods the market with additional potential renters, further increasing the cost of housing.
Not all social trends are as evident. In a survey recently conducted in Sulaimaniya by the Women’s Media and Education Center, 99 percent of women said they do not feel safe against verbal harassment on the street. This insecurity is at its peak between 1 and 5 p.m. during the summer since the temperature is so high and fewer people are out on the streets.
In addition, a few trends revealed themselves over the course of the trip. Distrust of and discontentment with the government seems to be strong, especially among the youth. Hurdles to education seem to be strongest in the villages, where the education is most needed. A women’s economic status, particularly in villages, is often dependent solely on men. Different types of marriage contribute to this pattern as well. Violence against women is an increasing consequence of this, in addition to a few other social factors. Some young women feel that their only escape is self-immolation. The challenge of countering these and other problems seems to be the insufficient resources available. This is also true of projects aimed to help the internally displaced persons who have relocated in Kurdistan due to the violence elsewhere in the country. As well as discussing these issues, this report will highlight individual profiles to give a sense of Kurdish life.
Distrust of and discontentment with government
Among the citizens of Iraqi Kurdistan, discontentment with and distrust of the Kurdistan Regional Government (KRG) and its officials is increasing, according to Yadger, a non-profit human rights Project Manager. The younger generation in particular does not believe that the government is doing enough to meet their needs. This, they argue, is apparent in income disparity. A teacher earns, on average, $300 per month; whereas, a minister’s salary is often between $4,000 and $5,000 monthly.
Other young citizens, such as Sheeren, a young journalist, expressed her discontentment with her government, saying, “The Kurdistan government says they are democratic and working for the people. In reality, they are just lining their own pockets.”
The day after I arrived in Sulaimaniya, an editorial cartoon appeared in a local newspaper of a man, representative of the Kurdish government, watering a tall plant whose leaves included “corruption,” “feudalism,” “spies,” and “irresponsibility.” Two small wilting leaves, “Anfal” and “Halabja,” poked out of the ground next to the large, watered pot. The cartoon illustrates the acute frustration that local people feel with their government.
The city of Halabja is a prime example of discontent citizens. Halabja endured chemical attacks by Saddam Hussein in 1988. Approximately 5,000 people died from the initial attacks. Health problems linger even close to 20 years later. Poverty is also evident in the crumbling buildings around this city of 80,000 people. Approximately 200 bomb shells still remain around the city.
In March 2006, approximately 6,000 people demonstrated in Halabja to express their discontentment with their government. The protestors blocked officials’ access to the city. Security forces came as a result, and, according to Nariman, a local human rights advocate, began shooting. In the process one person was killed and 11 more injured. Consequently, around 300 of the original protestors burned the memorial in town which commemorated all of those killed in Saddam’s chemical attacks.
Many of the city’s residents feel neglected by their government. As a result, Luqman Mohammed founded the Halabja Victim's Association in 1992, of which he is now Director, to serve as a representative voice of surviving families to the government. The biggest need unmet by the government is a specialized medical center for the victims. Mohammed also said that water sanitation and electricity projects are needed. Additionally, there is no public space, like a park, to create a sense of community.
Dr. Mohammed Said Sardar, head doctor of the Qandil-Sidr Halabja Hospital, attested to the lasting impact from the chemical attacks. He said that most people died (about 5,000) but for those who survived, every Monday there are six doctors who can evaluate their conditions. About 1,000 survivors (this includes the area outside of Halabja) have come to see these doctors and more come each week. About 50 percent of these cases need additional outside treatment, as there are no specialists at the hospital, which also lacks some very basic instruments. The government has sent 59 individuals abroad for treatment, most to Tehran. The majority, however, cannot afford any treatment. The chemicals used resulted mostly in permanent deformation of the lungs, chest allergies and infections, pneumonia, skin disease, and eye diseases including blindness. Dr. Sardar was unable to verify any lasting effects of the chemicals in the environment, but said they are waiting on the Italian government, who recently said they would send a team to evaluate the conditions.
Electricity, water, the environment, health, and the lack of a children’s center remain the most pressing obstacles for the city of Halabja, according to its Mayor, Khder Kareem. “Fruitless promises,” those made by international delegations that have yet to be kept, were also a focus of Mayor Kareem. A water sanitation project promised by 2008 by the US Army civil operations division is included in this list.
Education
Education is a necessary ingredient in the formula for social change. As recently reported in Chronicle of Higher Education , Kurdistan is considered an “oasis” for university education in Iraq, especially when compared to the central and southern regions of the country; however, obstacles remain to an education at all stages for both sexes, particularly in rural villages.
Most villages only have primary schools. This means that because it is too expensive to send the children to the nearest town for further education, formal learning often stops at sixth grade. If a child is sent to pursue further education, that child is usually a boy. There are several reasons for this. Male children, according to traditional mindsets, are sometimes valued greater than their “second class” female counterparts for the economic and leadership potential they hold, according to Ikrama, a women’s rights activist in the village of Sarqalla. (Also see Samera’s profile below) Additionally, families fear that something bad might happen to the girls if they are sent out of the village, which, in turn, would damage the family’s honor. One mother said, “[My daughter] is too beautiful. She should stay home with me.”
A strong sense of despair can accompany these social conditions. The small village of Khalabag, just north of Diyala province, revealed its prevalence. When I asked if the children want to continue their educations, one of the mothers, Taban, said that naturally they do but, "Why [send them]? There's no use." Working to supply the family's needs is more important than education, she continued. Additionally, she said, “It’s better not to think of democracy. We don’t have electricity and water- that’s more important than rights and equality.”
Even within the city, the quality of education is still a concern. There are as many as 60 children in one class, according the Governor of Sulaimaniya, Dana Ahmad Majid. That equates to less than one minute for each child to speak in their 45 minute class periods.
Education beyond primary school is necessary to slowly break the cycle of despair. The key, however, is incorporating peace, respect, equality and social awareness into the curriculum. Though slow, this process should gradually help transform the traditional social mindsets that restrict women’s roles.
Krieger, Zvika. “Oasis in Iraq: Universities Flourish in Kurdistan.” Chronicle of Higher Education. Accessed 27 August 2007. http://chronicle.com/weekly/v53/i50/50a00101.htm.
Go to Part Two
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